So you found a pretty odd shaped stone, shell or some other very cool object and you don't know what to do with it,right? Happens to me all the time when I go beach combing here on Cape Cod. I found a few ideas on how to make a crochet or viking knit bezel to make it into a pendant. I did not by any means come up with this idea or technique on my own, but I did it with a little help from all the others ideas and I kept the ones that worked best for me to create this project. It takes some patience, mixed with a little humor and practice to get one that looks really good, but truly it looks quite nice even when the outcome is a bit rustic too. So have a cup of chamomile tea and let's get started.

Wire weaving can be very ornate and a bit daunting to attempt if you haven't tried it before, but you shouldn't let that keep you from giving it a go. I came up with a little trick after many failures to making a more uniform bezel and I began with a simple two wire base to get myself started. This smaller teardrop stone sits very well and securely and look beautiful in this design. The teardrop is  the easiest shape besides a round for beginners, but with more practice and a little tweaking I am certain it could be used for almost any shape you wish to wrap. Let's give weaving this pendant a try shall we?

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1. Remove tape and shape the hammock around your stone. Shape as needed carefully
2. Bend front and back wires at top to capture the stone
3. Place the ¼” behind the tails at the base of the top of the pendant stone
4. Wrap two back wires around the ¼” dowel to create a bail leaving tails flat against the stone back

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1. Using front wires wrap around the bail twice so tails end in the stone front
2. Trim  and file front wires
3. Curl the front wires flat to make a pretty design and to help secure the stone.

Ever wonder how they make those awesome spiral /coil Egyptian bracelets? Well so did I. I went searching and I found only two sets of directions. Both were terrific, but as I was working, I wondered if there was an easier way to assemble them. I was having trouble getting the links hooked together after I made them. So I came up with a way that works better and easier for me, and maybe it will be better for you too. 

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1. Now repaet step four in last section on the other side of the wire
2. Find center between the larger loop ends and cut making two ear wires
3. Cut shorter stems if you wish
4. Gently file ends with emery board
5. Using Chain nose pliers make a small bend on ends facing away from earring loops (if you wish) to a 20 degree angle with flat nose pliers
6. Hammer gently to strengthen 

​4 ½” wires

1. Mark the end with no loop with a sharpie at ¾” from the end
2. Repeat steps one and two in the previous section until the spiral reaches the sharpie mark.
3. At the mark bend the wires up to center them
4. Make a small loop going from the front of the spiral to the back ( hold the wire stem just under your tool to keep the stem from warping while making the loop)

   Making a necklace from start to finish may seem very daunting. But, I am going to show you how to make all the components you need to complete a beautiful necklace that is simple to create and yet elegant. I am adding a bit of chain into my design, but you can make the entire necklace by just repeating the links until you get the desired length you want. I am also making the center briolette for this design, but again you can use any pendant design you wish to finish the look. Let's get started!
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Pre-Assembly

1. If you are planning to make it all wire links please make enough of the small S links and large spiral S links to fit you.
2. First we must check all wires for any burs or sharp spots and file them
3. Now gently hammer all the components to make them strong and smooth and flat (this insures the necklace lays properly)
4. Lay out all the components in the order they will go

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   Making a necklace from start to finish may seem very daunting. But, I am going to show you how to make all the components you need to complete a beautiful necklace that is simple to create and yet elegant. I am adding a bit of chain into my design, but you can make the entire necklace by just repeating the links until you get the desired length you want. I am also making the center briolette for this design, but again you can use any pendant design you wish to finish the look. Let's get started!
​

Pre-Assembly

1. If you are planning to make it all wire links please make enough of the small S links and large spiral S links to fit you.
2. First we must check all wires for any burs or sharp spots and file them
3. Now gently hammer all the components to make them strong and smooth and flat (this insures the necklace lays properly)
4. Lay out all the components in the order they will go

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These easy methods can be used for larger beads, just scale the wire length up to fit. For some earwires just go to Three Easy Earwires Styles in the projects section.
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 You went to the beach and collected tones of really cute shells, beach glass and stones. No wait you went to the bead store and raided all their cool polished stones. Now what? Well here is a fun project that you can do with all those awesome treasures. A wire wrap ring that is so fun you won't be ab;e to stop making them. 

   So you have a box of found objects that are collecting dust and you only bring them out once in a while when your feeling nostalgic, right? Well I decided it was time to do something great with those objects and enjoy them every day. I was inspired by a design I saw by Eva Marie Sherman and I tweaked it a bit to show more of the object and I also did a few trial runs to perfect it for my design. The technique is not difficult but the wrap can be tricky because that cool object wants to get away back into the box, But you can do it and with practice you'll be a pro in no time. 

  So go get that box and your tools and let's get started!

This wire wrap project is appropriate for a coin that is the size of a quarter (1"across) or a cabochon that is fairly flat and also about 1" across. 
      I got some of my information and the inspiration to create these directions from another artists sight.  https://www.scribd.com/beadinggem    Please visit this sight to get even more information on  measurements for other sized coins. Or visit http://www.scribd.com/doc/91672366/How-to-Wire-Wrap-a-Coin-Pendant-Tutorial#scribd for their full instructions.

*If making something a different size you will need to change your wire length, possibly add the number of wires for bezel width (for the depth of the stone), and also use the correct size dowel for creating the frame for your bezel. 

              7.   With half round wire wrap the three center marked areas on the square bundle wire four times each (cut ends should all be on one side and away from edges, this will be the inside/wrong side.)

            9.   Now wrap wire bundle around the 1” dowel starting at the center wrap with the inside/wrong side facing the dowel. 
             10.    Place coin or stone into center of bezel and check that the wires cross at the top where the remaining marks are, if they do not, adjust them so that they do.​
              11. Once you get the marks correct make 90 degree angles outward from the frame on the marks (these will be the bail wires)

           14.    Place coin or stone into bezel and hold in place with painter's tape.
           15.   At each bezel wrap on the frame and at the center of each side of the bail wires create small bends in the outer wire only to hold coin. Start at the bottom of the coin and go up towards the top. Do on both sides of coin. Start with top and remove painter’s tape as needed to reach bottom area. Do this carefully so not to scratch coin.  Remove or adjust painter's tape when as you go.

​ Option two (with 1/2 round un-trimmed)
               16. Wrap the four to five bail wires front to back around the 1/4" dowel.Use flat nose to bring them in close.
               17.   Wrap the bail with ½ round wire tightly, trim  1/2 round wire and re-tighten with flat nose pliers
               18.  Spread out the bail loops to look nice

               19.  Cut the back tails(4) to 3/4" ,  file smooth
               20.  Make tiny loops on small tails at the back of the coin and lay them flat against the coin
                21.   Finish remaining tails by filing them and curling them into soft coils or creating large loopy swirls towards the front.

Also Checkout some of my handmade pieces as well 

   

Always wanted to learn how to make some fun and fashionable earrings? Well lets get to it! These earrings not only have swing and a little rock and roll personality, they are fairly easy to make yourself and you can change them to suit your limitless imagination and bead supply, which ever comes first.

      4.   Cut chain into 14 pieces 1"(there may be a very tiny chain left but we are losing one ring each time we cut, so do not cut them longer).

      5.    Slide one chain then one ball onto the hoop alternating till you have 7 chains and six balls on each hoop. Do not worry if the wire gets a little warped, you can reshape it on the shot glass if needed.

      6.   Now make a loop on the other end that goes around under the other loop and close it.

       7.   Add your DIY ear wire and you have a pair of real rock and roll earrings

    

     Making a metal bracelet with a center bead can be done with a few tools and is a great beginner project for learning wire shaping. I love these bangles because you can stack the bracelets and they take very little time to make when you get the hang of it.

Directions

     1. Cut the 16-18 gauge wire to 4"

     2. Cut the 14 gauge wire to 6 1/2(small) , 7"(medium) or 7 1/2"(large) 

     3. Using emery board gently round and soften the ends so they do not scratch you

     4. Slide bead/s onto the 16-18 gauge wire centering the beads 

     5. Using the round nose pliers bend each side down about 45 degrees 

     6. Using the pen or pencil and your fingers if possible wrap the wire around and cross over the wire.( if you are good with round nose pliers you can do it without the pen)

     7. Using the flat nose pliers wrap the wire around twice for a clean and secure conection

     8. Hammer one end of the 14 gauge wire approximately 1/2" from end to flatten slightly, then using the emery board smooth out edges (If you do not have a hammer, do not panic. This step can be left out. I like to do it for a cleaner more professional look).  

     9. Using widest part of your round nose pliers hook the other end but do not close the loop completely yet.

     10. Using the 2" round object you have wrap the wire around it to form a open circle with your loop facing out.

     11.Using the round pliers make a half circle on the other end facing out.

      12. Now just put bead  onto open loop and close it tight. Then gently shape the bead wire to be a small arch and put on your new bangle bracelet!

       

                    Wire Gauge and What to use when.....   

    As you begin to learn about wire wrapping and jewelry component making, you will realize that often the sizes of these materials is measured as gauge. If you re anything like I was in the beginning this will be a "What the Mackerel does that mean?" moment.

         Let me explain.  Gauge is the measurement used to define the thickness of a wire. The Larger the number the smaller the thickness. For Example a size 12 gauge wire is quite thick and a size 26 gauge is very fine. Gauges are usually seen between 26(super fine)  to about 16 (thick) in most local craft stores in the jewelry wire section. You can get wires in an even larger range at wholesale on-line craft stores such as Rio Grande and Fire Mountain Gems as well.

        So what does this mean to the making process?  Well it can depend on what type of metal you are using as well as what you want to do with it. What I mean is if the metal is soft you may need a thicker wire to do the same or similar job as what a harder metal can do with a thinner gauge.  That is why, when you go looking for what gauge is for what situation, sometimes you find lists that show a range of gauges for the same jobs. But let's start with the basics.


        According to one of my favorite inspiring how to books, The Earring Style Book by Stephanie A Wells the break down looks like this for size and use.  
            
      Gauge
       26(super fine)-  Single and double wrapped loops, teardrop loop and wrap, wrapping single beads and attaching beads to frames.

        24(very fine)- Eye pins and head pins, single and double wrapped loop, teardrop loop and wrap, wrapping single beads to frames.

         22(Fine)- Eye pins and head pins, loops, teardrop loop and wrap, attaching beads to frames.
        
         20(Medium)- Ear wires, jump rings, eye pins and head pins, connecting frame pieces.

        18 -14 or larger(thick)- Frames 


        I used this guide often, when I was first learning the art of wire wrapping to decide where to begin on a project. However as my experience has grown I have found that softer metals will need to be at least one size thicker in gauge for the same results of strength. That being said it is only comfortable to go up to a size 19 gauge at the largest, for ear wires. Anything thicker can be heavy and cause irritation on the wearer. Another way to get around this is to gently hammer the ear wire, at the u-shape part, to strengthen it.  

       As you begin to work with wire, you will find your own comfort for different operations. I find that I do not like the very fine wires to work with because most of the wrapping I do involves ends that are never tucked under. When using the fine wire this in usually suggested because they are too soft to stay in place otherwise and will unravel during polishing(at least this has been my experience with dead soft metals, copper and aluminum) So for my designs I usually will not use a wire smaller than 19 gauge or 18 gauge for attaching beads to frames and wrapping stones. I also find that the finer gauges are too soft to hold as jump rings, unless tempered, or hammered, if the metal is dead soft. I also work with much larger sizes of aluminum because it is extremely soft and even gentle hammering can only harden it slightly. 

     Most of the wire I work with is either dead soft or soft, what this means is that it will shape much easier. I love the look of the hammering effect so I prefer it over the hard wire in most cases. I also believe that when you start learning it is a better choice so you can get your technique worked out before trying the harder metals. Copper is fairly inexpensive to work with and will give you a chance to experiment with your learning. I also suggest starting with just two sizes to begin, and from my point of view 20 gauge and 16 gauge is a great for many of your first projects.

        I hope this helps to clarify the gauge matter and gets you to the wire isle soon. Have fun and see what works for you. 
  
              Feel Free to visit my Gallery/Shop to see examples of different jewelry pieces made with different gauges and metals.

        My latest love affair may get me into trouble with my husband. But that is only because I am running out of places to put my jewelry supplies and I have been confiscating some of his tools from the man cave.

     He did a plumbing and electrical home project recently and gave me the old pipe and the left over wire, so technically it is his fault I have a new addiction added to my current jewelry making obsession.
    
     I had to clean the pipes quite a bit, with believe it or not sea salt and lemon juice. Worked terrific and the copper shines like crazy. Then I removed all the wire from the electrical plastic coating, well worth the effort. I got some 12 and 14 gauge wire in all different lengths.

   After all the prep I began experimenting with all of it. After hand sawing the pipe into workable pieces, I hammered some completely flat and shaped it into a cuff bracelet and added some of the 12 gauge wire to it as an accent. I also wire wrapped a few pieces that I left round but shaped a bit into a pendant and necklace center piece. Then for the last couple of days I have been shaping and hammering the 12 and 14 gauge wire into earrings, rings and bracelets. It is so much fun and looks amazing!  
 
     I love the look of the shiny warm copper so I have been coating it with a product called Ever brite. It looks terrific and is easy to use. It keeps the color and I do it on the finished pieces to protect it. Of course if you like how copper gets a patina you can leave it alone.

      I am totally hooked and will continue to hammer and shape it into all kinds of new things. I am very much enjoying my new found recycle adventure. You never know what will inspire you, so keep your eyes and mind open and look at that pile of junk in a different way.

   May you find a new recycling obsession of your own.
Dawn
http://www.etsy.com/shop/DRDesignsGallery